🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.